Tagawa is a kappo restaurant, where diners sit at a counter and the cooking happens in front of them, on Gokomachi street in central Kyoto. It is run by its youthful owner and a second cook, and it has been recognized by the Michelin Guide. Once a year, under the banner of its anniversary, there is a period when it entertains guests in a new, freer style, with izakaya-like cooking. Cooks from restaurants the owner is friendly with come behind the counter, and the room takes on a fresh, different atmosphere from usual.
A handwritten menu, and no limits
Remarkably, this evening was all you can eat and drink at a fixed price. In front of the cooks sat a cheerful bowl of citrus fruit. We began with a white wine.
Glancing over the handsome handwritten menu, we found it brimming with dishes. Just reading the names was enough to whet the appetite.
A potato salad worth taking home
The opening nibbles were dressed okara, soybean pulp, and a potato salad. Crab meat with crab miso and a house-made crab vinegar followed, all set down quietly in sweet little dishes. The potato salad astonished us: a flavor we had never tasted before, spreading into something deep. When we asked the owner, the ingredients, seasonings and even the secret ingredient were shared without hesitation. Since learning that the secret is black garlic, we have been using it constantly in our own cooking at home.
Fugu from the hearth, and a sashimi platter
The dishes come on small plates in modest portions, so we ordered one after another without holding back. Fugu marinated in soy sauce was grilled for us on the hearth; the sudachi citrus cut through its toasty, sweet flavor.
A cook we had not met before seemed to be in charge of the fish, so we asked her for a sashimi platter. From a wooden box of carefully prepared blocks of fish, she built the plate with delicate, deft hands. We were thrilled by how generously it was piled, from toro, fatty tuna, to squid. The lean tuna in particular had a texture in which the moisture seemed precisely calculated, so that the fish felt all the denser on the tongue.
Shirako, and a sake from Saijo
We spotted shirako, cod milt, one of our favorites, on the menu and ordered it straight away. It had been passed briefly through hot oil and was served with salt and sudachi, leaving the mouth wonderfully fresh. It was not overly rich, and very satisfying.
Naturally, we also drank the owner’s recommended sake. This was Kirei, a well-known sake brewed in Saijo, Hiroshima’s sake capital: distinctly dry, and ideal with raw fish and seafood dishes.
Sushi to close
Good times pass quickly, and soon it was nearly time for the next sitting’s guests. At the owner’s suggestion we ordered sushi to finish, and the same cook made it right in front of us. We were surprised by the range, a line-up worthy of a first-rate sushi restaurant. We were especially pleased by the menegi, young leek sprout, sushi, which is rarely available. The rice was cooked so that each grain stayed distinct, and the nori was of high quality. She even rolled a single portion of makizushi for us with great care, and the sushi left us thoroughly content.
Udon, and a thank-you
“If you still have room…” At those words, the glutton hiding behind our spirit of enquiry came out. Kyoto-style udon with chikara mochi, a toasted rice cake: clear dashi and supple noodles, in a sweetly small portion that was easy to finish. Having enjoyed ourselves to our hearts’ content, we thanked the owner, a little sheepishly. “Not at all, it’s a thank-you celebration, so we’re just glad you enjoyed it,” came the reply, with the owner’s usual easy smile.
Final thoughts
Tagawa leaves nothing to chance, right to the very end. We were given house-made chirimen sansho, tiny dried fish with Japanese pepper, to take home, and the elegant wrapping impressed us too. The anniversary event is a period of generous hospitality from Tagawa to its guests, and booking is essential. If you have become a familiar face and the owner invites you, consider yourself lucky.
This review reflects a visit in February 2023. Menus change with the seasons; please confirm current details directly with the restaurant before visiting.
