Soft light falls from the coffered ceiling, the tatami smells fresh, and the tiredness of the journey begins to lift. Beyond the wide windows, water spills down a rock face into a bright Japanese garden, framed like a painting. Walls of deep blue and warm orange give the lounge a modern touch, so that it feels serene yet quietly exciting. Sinking into one of the deep sofas and listening to the waterfall, we could feel everyday life slipping away and an unhurried, rather indulgent stretch of time beginning.
To the room
A walkway edged with bamboo fencing and white gravel led us on, the gentle light of an andon, a standing paper lantern, guiding the way. Behind the sliding door lay a spacious, thoroughly Japanese room, filled with the clean scent of rush matting.
Beyond the open veranda is a carefully tended courtyard garden, its mossy stones and swaying branches full of atmosphere. Settled deep in a chair on the hiroen, the sunroom-like strip between room and garden, gazing idly at the plants, we felt the fatigue of the trip melt away.
A quiet place to bathe
The changing area, wrapped in warm wood and lit softly by indirect lighting, felt calm and private. A long white counter with a large mirror leaves plenty of room to get ready after bathing. Rattan baskets and small bath mats add a homely, traveling feel, and the whole space has a slightly retro, nostalgic air that makes it easy to relax in.
After the bath we sat at the low table in our room with tea and a sweet, letting our flushed bodies cool down slowly. The sweet was simple and charming, and we suspect it was handmade. With every bite, a quiet sense of contentment seemed to spread through us.
The wine cellar and the lounge
On the way to the main baths stands an impressive wood-paneled wine cellar. Behind the glass, countless bottles lie neatly in rows, aging in the warm light. Beside it, past a display of moth orchids, opens a large hall furnished with generous sofas. We imagined it was meant as a lounge where guests can relax at leisure.
A spring kaiseki from the Tango coast
Unfolding the menu, written out carefully by brush, raised our expectations for the evening at once. Titled “Spring Gourmet Kaiseki”, it reflected the ryokan’s attention to detail, and its long list of seafood from the Tango coast and produce from the mountains promised a lavish evening ahead.
The sashimi brought together seafood from the Sea of Japan, including botan prawn and abalone, arranged with real flair. The gradation from translucent white fish to glossy red was beautiful to look at. We moistened our throats with a pale-tinted house-made aperitif. The fresh scent of the sea and delicate knife work made for a refined combination.
Alongside a cold draft beer, we were served Shuten Doji, a local sake of which Tango is proud. Named after Mount Oe, where a legend of an oni (ogre) lives on, this dry sake has a crisp, clean poise. Drinking a sake brewed from the water and climate of the place you are visiting is one of the real pleasures of travel.
Nodoguro, tempura and a shell of spring
In the center of a large plate lay a fine whole nodoguro, blackthroat seaperch, glazed in an amber simmering liquid. The white flesh, rich with delicate fat, had been cooked until plump and fell apart the moment our chopsticks touched it. The accompanying yuba (tofu skin) and the fresh scent of kinome, young sansho leaves, brought out the depth of the sweet-savory sauce.
Next came tempura, carried in with the aroma of just-fried batter in a golden coat. A prawn standing straight, seasonal fish and bright green shiso leaves were all fried light and crisp. When we dipped a generous amount of snow-white grated daikon into the dipping broth, steam rose gently from the bowl.
A large shell, as beautiful as a piece of craftwork, served as the dish for a colorful, refreshing vinegared course. Pen shell scallop, seared until fragrant, was garnished with kogomi (ostrich fern fiddleheads) and myoga ginger, both of which carried the breath of spring. A clear, glistening jelly coated everything, as lovely as a mountain stream in early summer. A sharp, clean acidity rising to the nose and a pleasing crunch made it a wonderful accent to the meal.
The red snow crab
Then a large platter appeared, almost entirely filled by a magnificent beni-zuwaigani, red snow crab, glowing vermilion. The center of the shell was brimming with rich crab miso, the creamy innards, giving off a deep aroma of the sea. The neatly shelled leg meat was succulent, and its tightly packed flesh spoke for its sweetness.
From the moment we saw it, it took our breath away: a presence worthy of the star of the evening.
When the lid of the earthenware pot was lifted, the sweet aroma of crab broth rose with the steam. In the bubbling golden soup, the vermilion leg meat opened out like a flower. Even the short wait before we could reach in with our chopsticks felt like a treat.
Bright green watercress, pure white tofu and a small dish of green sansho berries were arranged beautifully. Pairing the pleasantly bitter watercress with crab hotpot was a clever and stylish touch. The tingling burst of the fresh sansho berries gave the sweet crab broth a surprisingly vivid depth. Seasonal and refreshing, these were excellent supporting players, tightening the flavor of the pot.
Zosui to finish
With practiced movements, our nakai, the room attendant, poured beaten egg into the soup, now full of the flavor of crab and vegetables. Each slow circle of the ladle seemed to fill the room with the savory scent of the broth. It was a joy to watch every grain of rice soak up the goodness from the bottom of the pot. Seeing everything we had enjoyed so far come together in this one pot set our hearts racing.
The zosui, a soupy rice dish, was served in bowls generously scattered with flaked crab and shredded nori. Sipping the broth, softened with fluffy egg, the rich flavor of the crab warmed us right through. The nori’s sea fragrance and a gentle saltiness made it a truly flavorful, outstanding finish.
The open-air bath
We had the open-air bath to ourselves, which made for a wonderful soak. Gardens have been laid out all over this ryokan, and real effort goes into creating its atmosphere.
We walked along the tatami-floored passage, edged with white gravel and lanterns, enjoying the feel of it under bare feet. A handsome wooden lattice door ahead gave the sense of stepping somewhere special. Pushing it gently open, we found a neat tatami corridor stretching quietly ahead in soft amber light.
Breakfast
Breakfast brightened the morning at once. Glossy grilled fish, translucent octopus sashimi and fluffy white rice gently woke our appetites. From a small pot of colorful warm vegetables came steam and the earthy goodness of the produce. The careful flavors in each small dish seemed to spread through the whole body: a lovely way to begin the day.
Looking back
What stands out most about this ryokan is the crab. We have eaten crab at many ryokan, but this one was in excellent condition and packed with meat, and we were thoroughly satisfied. The vermilion red snow crab was carried proudly to the table amid the steam, its shell brimming with crab miso and its glossy leg meat seeming to give off a sweet scent of the sea. Each time we brought the camera closer, the glistening fibers of the meat stood out, and we could hardly contain our excitement.
This review reflects a visit in April 2025. Menus change with the seasons; please confirm current details directly with the ryokan before visiting.
