FORNI at HOTEL THE MITSUI KYOTO: Pizza in a Garden Setting

Behind a grand gate in central Kyoto, the Italian restaurant of HOTEL THE MITSUI KYOTO turns out thin, crisp pizzas so good that we ordered two more, with a courtyard garden on the other side of the glass.

The hotel's gate: a heavy tiled roof, white noren curtains and decorative pine arrangements on either side.
The hotel's gate: a heavy tiled roof, white noren curtains and decorative pine arrangements on either side.

Our verdict

FORNI, the Italian restaurant at HOTEL THE MITSUI KYOTO, is built around pizza, and the pizza is the reason to come: thin, crisp bases, gentle salt and toppings allowed to speak for themselves, from Kujo leek with Iberico pork to a mushroom pizza where maitake outshines porcini. A large window onto the courtyard garden, a free-flow wine and Champagne course and graceful staff complete the evening. A relaxed way to experience a grand Kyoto hotel.

Recommended for

Diners who want a relaxed, well-served meal inside one of Kyoto’s grand hotels without committing to formal fine dining, particularly pizza lovers and those who enjoy a free-flowing glass of wine with a garden view.

Area
Kyoto, Japan
Type
Restaurant
Visited
January 2023
Published
January 2023

Highlights

  • Thin, crisp pizza bases with gentle salt
  • Kujo leek and Iberico pork pizza
  • Large window onto the courtyard garden
  • Graceful, attentive staff

Features

  • Italian restaurant inside HOTEL THE MITSUI KYOTO
  • Pizza-focused menu
  • Courtyard garden view
  • Free-flow wine and Champagne course
Official website
On this page
  1. Arrival and the courtyard view
  2. The pizzas
  3. Sweets, and a parting word

HOTEL THE MITSUI KYOTO announces itself with an imposing gate. The unhurried building stands on the site of the former residence of the head family of the Mitsui clan, which stood here for more than 250 years. The grounds are so extensive that events are held in the courtyard and gardens through all four seasons. Inside there is a spa, restaurants and a bar, and we were overwhelmed by an atmosphere that seemed to let you enjoy Kyoto just as it is.

This time we visited one of its popular restaurants, the Italian restaurant FORNI.

Arrival and the courtyard view

Even the lighting in the lobby carried a sense of luxury, and the space felt very calm. As we approached the restaurant entrance, a member of staff came to greet us straight away. That evening we ordered a course with free-flowing wine and Champagne (as of January 2023).

A large single pane of glass looks out onto the courtyard, so you can enjoy your meal with a lovely view of plants and water together. In spring, we were told, the cherry trees bloom and the scene becomes especially charming.

The pizzas

Pizza is the heart of this restaurant, and you choose the ones you like from several on the menu. Potatoes and cheese are served as starters. Pictured above is the pizza with Kujo leek, Kyoto’s famous green onion, and Iberico pork. Below is a pizza piled with mushrooms and cheese: there was a note of porcini, but it was the robust flavor of maitake that rose through the nose even as we swallowed.

The pizzas were so good that we ordered two more: Gorgonzola and salami. The bases were thin with a crisp texture, and the salt was gentle, seasoning that never got in the way of the ingredients.

Sweets, and a parting word

The sweets were laid out so beautifully that we could not help taking photographs. They are well worth trying.

Just outside the restaurant there is a smoking room, powder room and toilets, which is convenient. A member of staff standing near the entrance spoke to us with a smile: “Are you not cold? If you like, you can go outside from here, so please enjoy the garden on your way home. Thank you very much for coming today.” She was wearing a kimono, and her words and appearance were exactly what establishes the reputation of a five-star hotel in Kyoto.

This review reflects a visit in January 2023. Menus and the free-flow course may have changed; please confirm current details directly with HOTEL THE MITSUI KYOTO before visiting.