Hotel Ogawa stands at Ogawa Onsen, deep in the mountains of Toyama, a hot spring whose 400th anniversary was being celebrated when we visited in October.
A Showa welcome
The space is nostalgic, still steeped in the atmosphere of the Showa era (1926–1989). The carpet laid at its center is soft and deep, and the moment we stepped onto it we felt quietly at ease. Wrapped in that warmth, we made our way to the entrance, where a sense of careful hospitality was already in the air, and the staff who came to greet us conveyed a thoughtfulness and dignity all their own.
The parking lot is very large. Coming out of a tunnel cut into the mountain, you suddenly see a huge hot spring complex. Steam rising from the onsen over the vast grounds gives the place a special feeling you would never find in the city.
A Japanese room with beds
The “modern Japanese room with beds”, increasingly common in recent years, keeps the character of a traditional room while adding comfort, and it makes for a polished space. With no futons to lay out, both staff and guests gain a more relaxed evening. Beyond the neatly made beds lies a view of the river, a moment in which quiet and beauty sit in harmony.
The furnishings of the room have something of another era about them, and the facilities are by no means the latest. Even so, everything was neatly arranged and thoroughly clean, with the particular comfort of a space that is carefully looked after.
Water from the Northern Alps
On the way to the large communal bath, our eye was caught by a cup of water labeled “Northern Alps”. It was surprisingly smooth in the mouth, with an almost faint sweetness and a clean, crisp taste that stayed with us. The hall leading to the baths is generously laid out, too, and its openness adds to the sense of luxury.
We did not take photographs in the large communal bath.
Posters celebrating the spring’s 400th anniversary hang on the wall, and its long history made us pause. Each time we touched the source of water that keeps welling up without end, we felt the richness of what the earth provides, and a natural gratitude for it.
A great many signed boards from entertainers and comedians are on display as well, a reminder of how well loved this hot spring is.
The walk to the cave bath
A walk along the road outside brings you to the hotel’s famous natural cave bath. It is a fair distance away, and the way there feels like a small adventure.
Along the way, the occasional loud bang from pest-control devices for wild animals made us stop in our tracks, yet even that walk, pressing on toward an extraordinary bath, has stayed with us as something only this place could offer.
The natural cave bath, overflowing with abundant water, is mixed bathing and open in spirit, and the water is remarkably smooth and gentle on the skin. Crystals spread dramatically across the cave walls, lending it the mystery of a limestone cavern.
Further on, another open-air bath appears, with a great waterfall thundering down before it. The sheer volume of water lets you feel the power of nature up close.
Dinner
Dinner, which we had been looking forward to, arrived bearing the gifts of the sea. The flavors of the land and the breath of the season were there, quietly satisfying the excitement of the trip. The number of dishes made us wonder whether recent price rises had made ingredients hard to come by, but since the hot spring is the real star here, we decided it was acceptable.
A funamori, sashimi served in a wooden boat, brightened the table, and with plain rice it was properly filling. The number of dishes felt about right for the price, but among them the mushroom manju, a steamed dumpling, deserves special mention. Within its soft, springy texture the rich aroma of mushrooms opened out gently, a simple taste that nonetheless left a lasting impression.
Breakfast
Breakfast was within the range we had expected in both quantity and quality, and, frankly, it fell slightly short of our hopes. We had been able to guess as much from the previous evening’s dinner, but overall the number of dishes left something to be desired.
The ingredients in the soup and the salad were modest too, and as a breakfast it stopped one step short of feeling complete.
Final thoughts
At this hotel the natural hot spring water flows freely, gensen kakenagashi, straight from the source without recirculation. Even after leaving the bath, our bodies stayed warm to the core, to the point of breaking into a sweat, and our skin felt soft and smooth.
The walk to the cave bath is charming by day, but after dusk the mountain road is plunged into complete darkness, so for safety bathing there is limited to before 7 pm. Even this restriction felt somehow fitting, part of an experience of living alongside nature that is particular to this place.
As a dynamic hotel surrounded by nature, it makes for a truly unique experience.
This review reflects a visit in October 2025. Please confirm current details, including cave bath hours, directly with the hotel before visiting.
