Arriving in Izu, the road opens out along the coast. Drive on through the trees and you enter the city of Ito. Passing a well-known ryokan on the way, we caught sight of the entrance of Ito Yukitei. We parked in the parking lot behind the building, and as we walked to the door a member of staff came out to take our luggage. Check-in at the front desk was quick, and we were shown to our room straight away. Because of the pandemic there was no guided welcome by the staff; in the past, guests could pause in the lobby with sweets and a welcome drink before going up.
The room
Low beds sat well on beautiful, light-grained wooden flooring. Women can choose a yukata, the light cotton robe worn around a ryokan, in a pattern they like, and the amenities were neatly arranged. Some dust remained on the light bulbs and the headboard, but most of the room had been cleaned thoroughly. We were impressed that we could walk barefoot across the floor without anything sticking to our feet.
Stone, timber and a cushion of pebbles
The large communal bath makes generous use of stone and wood. The big tub and the clear water lifted our spirits at once. Stepping in along the warm wooden rim, we found the bottom firmly paved with stone. We warmed ourselves in the indoor bath, with a scent of the sea in the air, then went out to the open-air bath, where the floor was covered with smooth, rounded pebbles. These were a real pleasure: they gave way like a cushion, and the rounded stones gently massaged the soles of our feet. We walked around more than we needed to, and when we finally sat down to soak, the weight of the water felt just right.
An evening walk in Ito
A walk after the bath can bring you to some important cultural properties. Ito is a major tourist destination, and strolling through its spreading hot-spring town is great fun. Pictured above is Tokaikan, a Japanese-style wooden building with a Showa-era retro atmosphere that is proudly described as being of the highest order. Lit up at night, it evokes the world of Spirited Away, the image almost everyone has in mind when they picture a hot-spring town.
Dinner, and a trio of abalone
When dinner time came we went down to the dining room on the ground floor. We sat at a spacious table and began by ordering a tasting set of local sake. A menu that lets you try a sip of each is always welcome.
The first course to arrive was Ito Yukitei’s signature starter, known as the “abalone trio”: tender steamed abalone to be enjoyed with several different sauces. The one made with nori was our favorite. With it came small temari sushi topped with kombu-cured sea bream, and a chilled dish of mushrooms and leafy greens.
Next came fresh Izu fish. The kanpachi, or amberjack, stood out for its firm bite and crisp texture. Izu is famous for its seafood, so we had half hoped for something a little more unusual, but the selection was a fairly standard one.
Beef steak paired with a chilled chawanmushi, a savory egg custard, also went well with sake. The chilled custard carried the flavor of sea urchin, a luxurious touch that refreshed the palate. The dishes came at just the right speed, as if the kitchen were keeping pace with fast eaters like us.
Eggplant and ganmodoki, a fried tofu fritter, were served chilled in broth, the fritter releasing juicy dashi with every bite. A cool dish that suited the warmer season.
Amadai, tilefish, arrived with daikon steeped in dashi. It was a new dish with an unusual idea behind it, but it was a little fishy. Across the whole menu, we felt the dashi had been made with care and was treated as the key seasoning.
The meal closed with clam rice, pickles and red miso soup with nori. The number of dishes and the portions felt slightly thin, but for people like us who like to go out for a late bite afterwards, it was just the right amount. Ito’s nightlife district is full of izakaya and bars serving seafood, and finishing dinner early to head into town for a second round is another of the pleasures of travel.
Breakfast
Breakfast felt like a menu we had seen many times before. One distinctive touch was the use of nori in the salad dressing. We are not great fans of the dried horse mackerel that is a fixture at seaside ryokan, and this one was a pity: almost all bone, with very little flesh. At Gyokuhokan, the sister ryokan run by the same company, breakfast includes excellent dried fish sourced from Ogiso Shoten in Izu, so this was something of a disappointment.
We also noticed dust built up in the air-conditioning vent directly above our table. In the bright morning light it bothered us that the air from it was blowing onto our food, so we mentioned it to the manager. He took notes and replied, “We will deal with it as soon as possible. Thank you for the valuable feedback,” a gracious response. The morning sun pouring in through the dining-room windows, with the strong light you find only in a seaside town, sent us on our way full of energy.
This review reflects a stay in May 2022, during the pandemic. Please confirm current details directly with Ito Yukitei before visiting.
