We returned to Hotel Yagi, the long-established ryokan in Awara, Fukui Prefecture, this time in the middle of winter. The main building dates from 1973 and the Kisshokan wing from 1985. The grand entrance is built as one with the parking lot, which makes arriving refreshingly easy, and once inside, the bright coffered ceiling and the interior catch the eye at once. Until check-in, guests can pass the time in the entrance lobby with free drinks, magazines, books and picture books, something we warmed to straight away.
The flowers placed on every table and the lighting on each floor bring in a modern feel that, in a good way, hides the building’s age. Children were thrilled by the perfectly ordered books, and the adults let out sighs of admiration. The lobby is arranged so that guests can relax in different corners, with sofas and rocking chairs. It is easy to picture a child, flushed from the bath and dressed in a yukata, the light cotton robe worn at hot spring resorts, rocking gently while being read a picture book.
S’mores, and a sweet in the room
Once check-in is done, a hands-on sweet is prepared. On this day it was toasted marshmallow s’mores: melted marshmallow sandwiched between biscuits. The children in the families around us leaned forward with anticipation, wondering what was about to begin, while their mothers held them back by the arm. When the room was ready, a handmade fruit daifuku, a soft rice cake with a sweet filling, was served with tea at the table. Welcome drinks and sweets in the lobby have become something of a trend lately, but the simple fact of being handmade makes a real difference to how satisfying they are.
A room in the Kisshokan
This time our room was in the Kisshokan wing: clean, spacious and calm. Simply finding water provided puts the mind at ease. In older ryokan, the custom was to bring iced water in a vacuum flask after dinner, so this thoughtful touch was welcome. The well-balanced interior and furnishings that appear here and there make the space comfortable.
The dinner buffet
The dinner buffet is the main attraction here. The tables, laden with local produce, Matsusaka beef, fresh fish and more, are lavish. Hotel Yagi’s pride, its “Sweets Paradise”, and the all-you-can-drink alcohol win guests over completely. The free alcohol is more than enough, but on the paid menu we spotted the name Kokuryu, Fukui’s celebrated sake, which any sake lover will want to try. Meat sushi and seafood sushi with big, generous toppings add color, and the little dishes served in small bowls are full of ideas and great fun. Their name cards carry curious titles rather than the usual menu standards.
Sake by the winter garden
Once we had eaten our fill at dinner, there was another announcement: furumai-zake, complimentary sake to enjoy while looking out at the garden. Just how far does the hospitality here intend to go? A variety of drinks were set out entirely for guests to help themselves, in a relaxed space facing a dimly lit stone garden, like sitting on a veranda.
The hot spring baths
The baths are a luxury: the hotel’s own spring, flowing straight into the baths without recirculation. Hotter and cooler water are blended, and we sank into a hot spring that wells up in great abundance. There is an aroma sauna with löyly, the Finnish practice of pouring water on the sauna stones, and even the shampoos and other toiletries in the bathing area are laid out buffet-style for guests to choose from.
Tattoos are not allowed in the baths, but as a consideration for overseas visitors, Hotel Yagi has introduced a new approach so that everyone can bathe comfortably together: cover-up stickers are on sale.
Breakfast, and a fairy-tale bread counter
Morning brought another astonishing breakfast buffet. As we walked into the dining room, wrapped in the smell of freshly baked bread, we found a scene as charming as something from a fairy tale. There were more kinds of bite-sized bread than we could possibly choose between.
Handmade vegetable smoothies, sashimi and a hearty stew of beef sinew with big chunks of meat stirred the appetite of anyone greedy enough to want it all, even first thing in the morning. That lighter Japanese dishes were laid out as well was a further thoughtful touch.
Final thoughts
We were overwhelmed by the care that shines through everywhere and by the sheer amount of service offered from the guest’s point of view, yet we were equally impressed by the professionalism of a staff shaped by the traditions of a long-established ryokan and by thorough training. Hotel Yagi puts real effort into its food and sweets, and its commitment to developing new dishes almost every month is admirable. With a kindness toward families with older relatives and toward children that keeps evolving day by day, it can fairly be called one of the leading ryokan of Awara Onsen. It is well worth a visit.
This review reflects a visit in January 2024; please confirm current details, including buffet, free-drink and tattoo-sticker arrangements, directly with Hotel Yagi before visiting.
