Mt Takao needs no introduction in Tokyo, and it is a mountain we return to often. It is easy to reach, with good train connections and plenty of parking. Beginners and sightseers can comfortably climb it in trainers, though some of its trails are steep enough to ask for a little more stamina.
Our usual route takes about an hour and a half each way, and on it hiking boots outnumber trainers. It is a lively, wooded trail of tree roots and running water that works the legs and hips harder than the easier paths. That it can be enjoyed in every season is one of the mountain’s great attractions.
This time, we tried a place on the mountain that offers barbecue “empty-handed”: no equipment required.
Terraces, tents and reservation signs
At this time of year the climb works up a light sweat, and reaching the summit leaves you tired and quietly pleased with yourself in equal measure. A little way back down from the top, we came to the barbecue spot.
There were six or seven tables on a terrace, along with tents that can be booked in advance or used if they happen to be free. For anyone who wants to soak up the atmosphere, it makes an ideal spot for photographs. Some of the tables carried “reserved” signs.
The bill, and the plate
We paid at reception, and the staff carried the tableware and ingredients to our table. There are three sets, and we ordered the cheapest. Even so, at ¥3,700 a head — ¥7,400 for two — it costs several times what a light lunch in a restaurant would. The most expensive set is ¥4,600 per person. Had it been all-you-can-eat, it would have been a far more tempting proposition.
Rice, curry and soup — kenchin-jiru, a hearty vegetable broth — were self-service and could be refilled freely.
Honestly, for ¥7,400, the plate left us wanting. There was pork that was still frozen, red meat with a perfunctory marinade, processed chicken, mini sausages and an assortment of vegetables. A voucher for ¥200 off the Hachioji ramen sold in the shop came with it.
Even allowing for the novelty of eating in a place like this, the price feels a little high.
A slow fire
You cook the meat yourself on a craft grill fueled by a special charcoal. Because the meat had not thawed, it took a very long time to cook through.
So close to the summit, in the chilly weeks before spring, the sweat from the climb soon turned cold. The cooking took so long that we began to wonder whether we would get through it all, and waiting, ravenous after the climb, took real patience.
The flavor was perfectly ordinary. There was no unpleasant smell to the meat, but we exchanged wry smiles: “¥7,400, though…” Nor was there enough to fill us. Still, it was an experience, and with that thought we headed back down the mountain.
Final thoughts
For anyone who wants to take in the views and the changing seasons on a famous mountain, over a barbecue and a beer with friends, this may well suit. The spot can also be reached by cable car or chairlift, so there is no need to climb at all.
This review reflects a visit in late 2020. Prices, sets and operations may have changed since; please confirm current details directly with the operator before visiting. It is reachable on foot from Takaosanguchi Station on the Keio Line.
