Among the Hotel New Otani’s dining programs in Kioicho, Tokyo, is a complimentary anniversary dinner, offered at a choice of three of the hotel’s restaurants. We chose the Chinese option: Taikanen, the hotel’s Shanghai restaurant.
What follows is really a review of two separate things: a kitchen that cooks at a genuinely high level, and an evening that never felt like the celebration it was meant to be.
A table above the city
We were seated by the window, with the city lit up beyond the glass, and the evening began with a glass of champagne for a toast. One look at the menu suggested that, in number of dishes at least, this would not be a full course — understandable, for a complimentary dinner.
Shark fin soup, and dim sum of real finesse
The cooking itself was of high quality. The shark fin soup stood out above all, with a distinctive depth of flavor. It had been thickened to exactly the right degree, enough that it stayed hot however long we lingered over it, and it had a rich, consommé-like savor that seemed to warm us right through.
The dim sum had been made with evident care. The wrappers were thin yet kept a definite bite, and the delicately seasoned filling held in juices full of savory depth. A well-judged saltiness brought out the texture and flavor of the prawn inside.
The frying of a grand hotel
The deep-fried white fish showed real skill; this is where you feel the hand of a first-class hotel kitchen. Even under a sweet-and-sour sauce, the thin coating stayed crisp and clung firmly to the fish. That it did not come away was a piece of technique that genuinely surprised us.
Noodles to close
Almost before we knew it, the last main course arrived: fried noodles. The char siu in them had been made as a dried meat, intensely savory and pleasantly salty. The noodles had a curious, intriguing chew; we honestly could not tell whether they had been fried, steamed or boiled. Coated in oil, their flavor opened up even further.
Tasting portions, and an evening cut short
On flavor alone, we would rate Taikanen highly. But the small number of dishes, the size of the plates and the size of each mouthful made the dinner feel almost like a tasting session. For an anniversary menu offered free of charge, that may well be reasonable. Still, dinner was over in no time, and given how long it had taken us to get there, we cannot deny that we left feeling a little flat.
In our own view, and it is only that, the program would work better with two options: enjoy the standard dishes as the complimentary part, and let guests who want more add dishes à la carte and combine them as they like. Taikanen is a high-end Chinese restaurant with prices to match, but the cooking is of a very high standard.
Service that forgot the occasion
The service was another matter. At the very start, the staff brought us the wrong menu. Plates were reached for before we had even put our chopsticks down. No one greeted us in any particular way when we arrived, and when we paid, we were told only, “There were no additional alcohol orders today. Right,” before the server went back to the floor.
We were, admittedly, guests at a free dinner. But nothing about the service suggested that we had come to celebrate an anniversary, and nothing about the evening made us want to eat more, or drink more.
Final thoughts
As a gesture from a great hotel, the idea is a welcome one. Honestly, though, an anniversary dinner of this kind is not one we would make a long journey for.
Still, we left with one consolation. Having discovered how good the food is, we can say with some confidence that one day we will come back and enjoy this restaurant properly.
This review reflects a visit in winter 2020, for the hotel’s complimentary anniversary dinner program. Menus, service and the program may have changed; please confirm current details directly with the hotel before visiting.
