In the serene embrace of Shuzenji, a town steeped in tradition and natural beauty, lies Asaba, a ryokan whose legacy has been meticulously nurtured over 400 years. Tracing its origins to Asaba Yakuro Yukitada, who settled here under the guidance of Zen Master Ryukei Hansho from Kegonin in Enshu to establish Shuzenji Temple, Asaba is cradled by the majestic Mt. Daruma to the west and the picturesque Katsura River. This enchanting locale was where Yakuro chose to lay down the roots of the Asaba lineage, a tradition later solidified by Asaba Yasuuemon’s establishment of an onsen, weaving the Asaba name indelibly into the fabric of Shuzenji’s history. This review reflects my stay on October 12, 2020.
Upon arrival, guests are immediately enveloped in the warm hospitality characteristic of Asaba. The ryokan offers valet service at the entrance, leading guests directly to their accommodations without the need for check-in procedures, a testament to Asaba’s commitment to effortless comfort. The contrast between the entranceway’s daytime vibrancy and the nighttime seclusion of the rooms is striking, with open doors at certain times inviting a refreshing breeze through the lobby, adorned with tasteful seasonal decorations. The intimate courtyard, seamlessly connected to the corridors, offers a picturesque transition to the guest rooms, reminiscent of moving through a beautifully framed landscape.
The accommodations, traditional Japanese-style rooms measuring 12 tatami mats, forego private baths in favor of a shared onsen experience, aligning with the best offerings of Asaba. My room, refurbished in 2023, was situated on the ground floor, offering an expansive view of Asaba’s iconic Noh stage and terrace, a gateway to experiencing Japan’s luxurious natural beauty. The stage hosts sought-after Noh and taiko drum performances several times annually, highlighting the cultural richness of Asaba.
Asaba’s philosophy of equal treatment for all guests, regardless of room grade, ensures a consistently outstanding experience. The ryokan’s atmosphere is one of relaxed comfort, devoid of the stiffness often found in establishments of its pedigree. The innkeeper’s natural warmth and the enjoyment of tea accompanied by homemade Japanese sweets further enhance the serene ambiance.
Guests are invited to select from two types of yukata for their onsen visits, embodying the thoughtful hospitality that defines Asaba. The lobby offers breathtaking views of the garden, pond, and surrounding mountains through impeccably clean glass, underscoring the ryokan’s meticulous attention to cleanliness and detail. The ability to traverse the building barefoot (or in socks) without encountering a speck of dust speaks volumes of the dedication to maintaining an immaculate environment, even in the typically dust-prone areas of traditional Japanese architecture.
The gender-timed indoor and outdoor baths offer a unique experience, with the outdoor baths’ wisteria trellises becoming particularly enviable when in full bloom. The provision of heated bath towels in the warming room is a thoughtful touch, ensuring comfort even in winter’s chill.
Asaba presents a changing tableau with the seasons, allowing guests to savor the quintessence of Japan’s four seasons. The indoor bath, designed with calm elegance, and the availability of private baths for unlimited use during one’s stay, add to the exclusivity of the experience.
The time from when the sun goes down to when it gets dark seems to fly by. This is thanks to the Noh stage on the Asaba grounds and the time spent looking out over the garden. The Asaba grounds are picturesque from any angle, and are sure to impress foreigners as well.
The transition from dusk to darkness at Asaba is magically swift, enhanced by the picturesque Noh stage and garden views. The grounds, a spectacle from every angle, promise to leave a lasting impression on international visitors as well. The salon, a haven for post-onsen relaxation, offers a symphony of cool breezes, the chirping of bell insects, and the occasional splash of carp in the pond, complemented by the ambient light of andon lanterns—a scene right out of a painting.
The attentive service extends to the morning, with the watchman opening the salon shutters and ensuring a graceful start to the day. The meticulous attention to detail, from the handling of furniture to the respectful departure, encourages guests to embrace the elegance that Asaba embodies.
