Under a cloudless sky, the great torii of Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima stood firmly in the calm sea, a breathtaking sight with its beautiful vermilion and the solid presence of a gate that has withstood the sea wind for so long. A single boat passed unhurriedly at its foot, adding a touch of the timeless Japanese landscape, and we were deeply moved by the long history woven here between rich nature and people’s faith.
In search of Hiroshima’s flavors
Back in town, we wandered out on foot in search of the taste of Hiroshima. First, Ugo no Tsuki, one of the prefecture’s best-known sakes. Faced with a glass filled to the brim, we could hardly contain our excitement. It looked as though it would go perfectly with fish.
The sashimi came beautifully arranged on top of a masu, the square wooden sake measure, with fresh seasonal fish laid out generously. It was a dish to enjoy with the eyes, too, and the quality showed at a glance. The seared pieces struck a fine balance between toasty fragrance and richness, the kind of thing that makes the sake go down a little too easily. Plenty of restaurants in Hiroshima make seafood their selling point.
Next, the oysters Hiroshima is famous for. Out of the shell, oysters can look a little forlorn, but this was a refreshing dish dressed in ponzu, with momiji-oroshi (grated daikon with red chilli) adding an accent. It made an ideal palate cleanser between sips.
To finish, a generous plate of nigiri. Each piece showed careful work, drawing out the flavor of the fish.
The Atomic Bomb Dome
Whenever we come to Hiroshima, we visit the Atomic Bomb Dome, to pay our respects and to remember a history that must never be forgotten. Standing before the Dome and the memorial in the quiet, we once again felt the weight of history and the value of peace.
Sheraton Grand Hiroshima Hotel
Our stay on the second night of the New Year was at the Sheraton Grand Hiroshima Hotel. The front desk, finished largely in wood, was chic and calm, and the polished space raised our expectations for the stay.
The washbasin, in black marble, had a sense of luxury. Amenities and mineral water were neatly arranged, showing an attention to detail, and the Hollywood-style lights around the mirror shone brightly over a space as clean as you would expect of a hotel of this standing. A chic bathroom area like this makes a real difference to a comfortable hotel stay.
The room itself was unusual in its design: the bedroom and the washbasin area flowed into each other without a partition, creating an open space. Washing our faces and hands at a basin that looked out over the room was a genuinely pleasant experience.
We also had use of the lounge, where we enjoyed a drink while watching the city at dusk. A glass of beer with the lights of urban Hiroshima before us made for an indulgent break.
Okonomiyaki, the Hiroshima way
No visit to Hiroshima is complete without okonomiyaki. Calling it “Hiroshima-yaki” is taboo, a local told us firmly: okonomiyaki is its proper name. A toasty crêpe-like batter, plenty of cabbage and thick noodles nicely browned at the edges were stacked in neat layers, all coated in a rich, glossy, sweet-savory sauce that was a feast for the eyes. A scattering of aonori (green laver) lifted the aroma further. The skill and care of the griddle cook showed in every part of this excellent plate.
From the colors of the signs to the smells drifting out of the doorways, everything spoke of the town’s charm, and the streets were lively and full of people.
Sushi Tatsu
Wanting to get a further sense of what Hiroshima has to offer, we went on to Sushi Tatsu, a popular place frequented by local people, and enjoyed sushi once more. There was superb otoro, finely marbled with glossy fat, beautifully prepared shime saba (cured mackerel) that showed off the knife work, and clear, fresh white fish, all set off by ornate gold-patterned plates. The careful preparation, the delicate technique of the nigiri and the carefully chosen fish came through, and the presentation had real elegance.
A New Year breakfast
After a night of fun and a good sleep, the hotel’s breakfast buffet was waiting the next morning. As it was the New Year, it had an osechi theme, the traditional New Year dishes: golden kuri kinton (sweet chestnut and sweet potato), plump, glossy black beans simmered until tender, neatly rolled datemaki (sweet rolled omelet) and kombu-maki (rolled kelp). They were arranged lavishly yet with refinement, so that the textures and contrasting colors of each dish stood out. It was a dazzling, dignified spread that seemed to celebrate the arrival of the new year.
This review reflects a visit in January 2024. Menus and hotel facilities change; please confirm current details directly with the restaurants and the Sheraton Grand Hiroshima Hotel before visiting.
